A Charming City Break in Montpellier

City Break: Montpellier

Scenery in nearby Millau.

We were fortunate to enjoy two wonderful stays with a dear friend in Montpellier, in the south of France. Both visits were very relaxed and easy going, giving us the chance to soak up the city's atmosphere at our own pace. To escape the intense summer heat, we often went out later in the day, spending many evenings wandering through Montpellier's charming streets and lively squares.

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Montpellier is a very charming city in the south of France, celebrated for its elegant architecture and Mediterranean atmosphere. Unlike many cities in the region, Montpellier has no Roman origins and was founded relatively recently, in 985, giving it a distinctly different character from nearby cities such as Nîmes and Arles. Today, it is one of France's fastest-growing cities and is particularly known for its large student population, which you really can feel in the city's streets, cafés and cultural scene.

The historic centre is a maze of picturesque medieval alleyways, grand squares and impressive mansions built by wealthy merchants over the centuries. Montpellier is also home to one of the oldest medical schools in the world, which has been operating continuously since the 13th century. It is an absolutely beautiful place to visit.

Historic Center

The historic centre of Montpellier, known as l'Écusson, is the heart of the city, with its maze of medieval streets, lively squares, and historic buildings. At its northern edge stand the impressive Saint-Pierre Cathedral and the historic Faculty of Medicine of the University of Montpellier. Founded in 1220, the medical school is considered the oldest in the Western world still in continuous operation and has welcomed famous scholars such as François Rabelais.

Adjacent to the faculty, the university hospital continues Montpellier's remarkable medical tradition, making the city an important centre for medicine and education for more than 800 years. It is an absolutely beautiful part of the city to stroll around with lovely stone coloured buildings and the cathedral is very impressive, it is so big I couldn't even get a picture of the whole building!

Adjacent to the faculty, the university hospital continues Montpellier's remarkable medical tradition, making the city an important centre for medicine and education for more than 800 years. Interestingly, unlike many cities in southern France, Montpellier was not founded by the Romans but emerged during the Middle Ages, rapidly growing into one of Europe's leading centres for medical learning and scientific research.

Iconic landmarks

A short walk north from the cathedral leads to the elegant Porte du Peyrou and the adjoining Promenade du Peyrou, one of Montpellier's most iconic landmarks. The triumphal arch was built in the late 17th century to honour King Louis XIV, while the spacious park offers panoramic views of the surrounding countryside. At its far end stands the impressive water tower and the historic aqueduct that once supplied water to the growing city, highlighting Montpellier's importance and ambition during the classical period.

Just a short walk away lies the peaceful Jardin des Plantes de Montpellier, one of the oldest botanical gardens in France, founded in 1593. Created originally for medical students to study medicinal plants, it remains closely linked to the medical faculty today. The garden offers shaded paths, rare plant species, and a calm escape from the busy city centre, reflecting Montpellier’s deep historical connection between nature, science, and education.

Favourite Cafes

Bar de la Vielle Porte – A relaxed and popular local café near the old town, great for a casual coffee in a lively square setting. It’s especially nice for people-watching and enjoying the atmosphere of the historic centre.
Broc Café, which sits directly opposite the Jardin des Plantes.
It’s more of a café-bar/brasserie than a quiet speciality coffee shop, but it’s extremely popular because of its location and atmosphere. It has a large terrace facing the garden, making it a very common meeting point for students, visitors, and locals after a walk in the botanical garden.
Cafes in place de la canourge: Place de la Canourgue is one of the most elegant and peaceful squares in Montpellier’s historic centre. Slightly raised above the surrounding streets, it has a quiet, tucked-away feel with stone façades, trees, and a relaxed atmosphere.

Cap d’Artrutx Lighthouse: This lighthouse gives a photogenic sunset view, often with Mallorca’s silhouette visible in the distance on clear days.

Cova d’en Xoroi: Unique because it’s a cave-bar built into a cliff. You get the ambience + view + music. It is best to go early as its popular.

Binigaus Beach: A quieter beach on the south coast. ideal if you prefer a peaceful, less crowded sunset.

Es Talaier Viewpoint: An inland option: you’ll see rural landscapes fading into distant sea — a more subtle, soft sunset experience.

Sunset from the sea / by boat: If you want a different perspective, viewing the sunset from a boat puts you in the open water with no obstructions at all.

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We spent a lot of time going out for beautiful walks around the city. We went to many cafes for many bottles of perrier. Out favourites are listed below.

Nightlife and events

Montpellier has a really lively and social nightlife, especially thanks to its large student population and international community. A big part of the scene revolves around informal events rather than traditional clubs, with regular language exchanges like the weekly meetups at Le Café de la Panacée, where locals and internationals gather to practise languages, meet new people, and enjoy drinks in a relaxed courtyard setting. These evenings often attract Erasmus students, travellers, and young professionals, creating a very open and international atmosphere.

Alongside these events, the city has plenty of casual bars and squares in the Écusson where people naturally spill out into the streets, especially in warmer months. Places like Fitzpatrick’s and other central pubs often host themed nights, while smaller cultural venues and associations organise quizzes, concerts, and rooftop gatherings throughout the week. This mix of structured events and spontaneous social life makes Montpellier feel very social and easy-going, especially if you’re looking to meet people without the pressure of a traditional nightlife scene.

Being vegan in Montpellier is relatively easy, although the dedicated vegan restaurants tend to be quite expensive. There are a few fully vegan or vegan-friendly places in the city, but they are often more of a treat than an everyday option, so we mainly relied on simpler, more affordable food instead.

During our time there, we enjoyed plenty of holiday-style snacks such as fresh bread and pastries from Au Rythme du Pain, which made it easy to eat well on the go. We also found lots of refreshing sorbet ice creams from various spots around the city, and relied on simple supermarket staples like carrot râpée and beetroot salads. The best meal we had was a surprisingly good and very affordable falafel wrap for around four euros, which showed that eating vegan in Montpellier doesn’t have to be complicated or expensive.

Beyond the city

We also explored beyond Montpellier, with several memorable day trips nearby. One highlight was a visit to Sète, a coastal town known for its canals and summer traditions, where we saw the famous water jousting event, the Joutes nautiques, taking place from boats in the harbour. It was a lively and very local celebration that made the town feel especially vibrant in the summer.

Another impressive destination was the striking Lac du Salagou, often referred to as the “red lake” because of its unusual coloured landscape and surrounding earth. However, the most memorable trip was to Millau, reached by bus from Montpellier, where dramatic mountain scenery and wide open views made it feel like a completely different world from the city, and easily one of the most beautiful places we visited.

In Millau, there is plenty to take in, with dramatic landscapes and striking modern engineering set against a rural mountain backdrop. One of the most iconic sights is the vast Millau Viaduct, which stretches impressively across the Tarn Valley and dominates the skyline as you approach the town. Below it, the river winds through the valley, offering calm walking spots and beautiful viewpoints along the water.

One of the more unforgettable parts of the visit was the drive up into the surrounding mountains, where a friend’s father took us up winding roads in a rather fast and energetic style, adding a sense of adventure to the journey. Once at the top, the views opened out across the valley, with the river, bridge, and surrounding hills all visible at once, making it one of the most striking panoramas of the trip.

Overall, it was an amazing trip shared with a dear friend who also introduced me to my husband, which made the experience feel especially meaningful. We spent a lot of time together exploring the city and its surroundings, sharing many laughs and enjoying the relaxed rhythm of life in Montpellier.

Some of the most memorable moments included seeing an animal rights march in the city centre, getting a rather unpleasant eye infection that added an unexpected twist to the trip, meeting new friends in the botanical garden while spending time there, and taking part in some gardening and moving work, going to the local swimming pool. These smaller, everyday experiences ended up becoming some of the most vivid highlights of the stay.

Top 5 things to see and do in Montpellier:

The university and cathedral area in the historic centre, with its impressive architecture and medical history
The elegant square near Place de la Canourgue, with the luxury hotel and peaceful atmosphere
A drink at Bar de la Vielle Port, a relaxed spot near the water
Fresh pastries and bread from Au Rythme du Pain, perfect for simple holiday treats
A night-time stroll through the old town, when the streets are quiet and especially atmospheric

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