A Charming City Break in Montpellier
City Break: Montpellier
We were fortunate to enjoy two wonderful stays with a dear friend in Montpellier, in the south of France. Both visits were wonderfully relaxed and unhurried, giving us the chance to soak up the city's unique atmosphere at our own pace. To escape the intense summer heat, we often ventured out after sunset, spending many evenings wandering through Montpellier's charming streets and lively squares, discovering a completely different side to the city by night.
Montpellier is a vibrant and characterful city in the south of France, celebrated for its elegant architecture, lively atmosphere and unmistakable Mediterranean charm. Unlike many cities in the region, Montpellier has no Roman origins and was founded relatively recently, in 985, giving it a distinctly different character from nearby cities such as Nîmes and Arles. Today, it is one of France's fastest-growing cities and is particularly known for its large student population, which brings a youthful energy to its streets, cafés and cultural scene throughout the year.
The city's historic centre is a maze of picturesque medieval alleyways, grand squares and impressive mansions built by wealthy merchants over the centuries. Montpellier is also home to one of the oldest medical schools in the world, which has been operating continuously since the 13th century and once counted Nostradamus among its students. During our visits, we especially enjoyed exploring the city after sunset, when the cooler evening air brought the streets and terraces to life and allowed us to experience the city's unique atmosphere from a different perspective.
Plage L’anse Méjean & Plage L’anse Magaud
Plages, l’Anse Méjean and l’Anse Magaud are honestly two of the most beautiful hidden coves I've ever come across. The water and rocky surroundings are already picture-perfect, but what makes these beaches feel really special is they're surrounded by pine forest that seem to hum softly all day long. Lying on the beach and looking up, the green of the pines stands out sharply against the vibrant blue sky.
L’Anse Méjean has a charming little port and a handful of colorful fishermen’s houses that give it a timeless, postcard-like feel. The water is crystal clear and shallow, perfect for swimming or snorkeling along the rocks.
L’Anse Magaud is, in my opinion, even better — it quickly became the place we went almost every day. With its mix of pebbles and sand and its vibrant marine life, it’s perfect for spending hours snorkeling. We were lucky enough to spot the tiny little legs of a red starfish! The rocks are also great for diving, and there’s a steady flow of people climbing up to jump in throughout the day. We were tempted, but surprisingly never quite went for it.
There’s even a small restaurant right on the beach, which feels very romantic. We had planned to enjoy a cocktail there on our last night, but hadn’t realized it was closed — so definitely check the opening hours before you go!
Because these beaches are a little harder to reach, they never felt crowded. Going down the hill is fine, but the climb back up is quite steep — we took it as a good bit of exercise after all the rich holiday food we’d been enjoying. It can get very hot during the day, and the water was sometimes on the cooler side. Compared to many of the crowded beaches on the Côte d’Azur, we felt lucky to have two such lovely, peaceful spots so close by.
Both coves are officially listed as remarkable sites of the coastline, and for good reason: they combine preserved natural beauty with Provençal charm — all just a short distance from Toulon.
Beaches in Toulon
Rooftops
We stayed in La Garde, a charming town just outside Toulon, which felt peaceful and full of local character. Set slightly inland, it has a traditional Provençal feel, with quiet residential streets, small squares and a historic old town built around its medieval roots. One of the highlights was visiting a medieval-style market, with stalls and atmosphere that made it feel like stepping back in time.
There is also a walking tour available through the old town, which takes you through narrow winding streets, old stone buildings and viewpoints that open out towards the surrounding hills and coastline, giving a real sense of its history and setting. In the main square, there are plenty of lovely cafés where you can sit with a drink and watch everyday life unfold. One particularly special moment was meeting a kind local woman who had set up a small book exchange outside her home, where we were able to leave some books behind and browse her collection in a really warm, community-driven gesture.
RED LAKE
One of the highlights of the area was spending time at Plage de l’Almanarre, a stunning stretch of coastline on the Giens Peninsula near Hyères. The beach runs alongside the “Route du Sel”, a scenic causeway that separates the sea from the old salt marshes, where it’s possible to spot flamingos and other wading birds, especially in the quieter parts of the reserve. In summer, a small free train runs along the peninsula, which we caught by accident, connecting the beach area to the little town at the tip of Giens, making it easy to explore without a car. The landscape here is quite unique, with shallow turquoise waters on one side and protected wetlands on the other, and the area is also well known for salt production history, which gives the whole setting a distinctive, almost untouched feel.
HYeres
Hyères is a historic coastal town on the French Riviera in the Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur region, known for its blend of medieval heritage and Mediterranean scenery. It is considered one of the oldest seaside resorts on the Côte d’Azur and has long attracted visitors drawn to its mild climate, palm-lined streets and distinctive southern French atmosphere. The old town still reflects its medieval past, with narrow winding lanes, ancient gateways and the ruins of a castle that sit above the town, offering a sense of its long and layered history.
An interesting fact about Hyères is its strong association with horticulture and exotic plants; thanks to its particularly mild microclimate, it became a centre for palm cultivation, earning it the nickname “the town of palms.” It also has a long history linked to salt production and coastal trade, which helped shape both its economy and surrounding landscapes over the centuries. Today, Hyères is valued for its relaxed pace, historic charm and enduring connection to nature and gardening culture.
We spent the afternoon strolling around Hyeres, eating an ice cream and recovering from our sunburn on the beach. It is absoutely gorgeous, and definately worth going to the viewpoint at the top of the town.
Food was a simple pleasure throughout the trip, and we didn’t eat out very often, instead enjoying lots of relaxed meals at home. We cooked straightforward, seasonal dishes like lentils, fried potatoes with courgettes, fresh tomato salads, and different kinds of pasta, often using whatever local ingredients we could find. In true Mediterranean style, olive oil featured heavily in everything we made, and we somehow went through a whole bottle in around 20 days. The region lends itself really well to cooking in general, with Provence’s emphasis on fresh, seasonal produce making it easy to prepare flavourful, uncomplicated meals.
Local produce in Provence is particularly abundant and full of character, shaped by the warm climate and long growing season. Markets are filled with sun-ripened tomatoes, courgettes, aubergines, peppers, garlic and onions, along with fragrant herbs such as thyme, rosemary and basil. You also find a strong tradition of olives, olive oil and a wide variety of legumes and grains, all of which reflect the region’s deep agricultural roots and Mediterranean way of life.
Le Pradet
Le Pradet is a small coastal town between Toulon and Hyères, known for its laid-back atmosphere and some of the most beautiful, unspoilt beaches in the area. The coastline is dotted with rocky coves, clear turquoise water and sandy stretches framed by pine trees, making it an ideal place for slow days by the sea. The beaches feel more natural and relaxed than some of the larger resorts nearby, with plenty of quiet spots to swim, read or simply watch the waves.
One of the most memorable moments there was sitting on a terrace with a lemon granita, looking out over the sea in the warm afternoon light. While we were there, we ended up chatting with a couple who felt like a glimpse into the future—essentially the retired version of us, full of stories, warmth and an easy rhythm to their day. It added a lovely, unexpected sense of connection to an already peaceful place.
Le Pradet Beaches
Plage du Monaco – A sheltered, scenic cove surrounded by rocky cliffs and pine trees. It’s one of the most popular beaches in Le Pradet thanks to its clear water and natural setting.
Plage des Bonnettes – A smaller, more intimate beach with soft sand and a relaxed atmosphere, ideal for a quieter swim.
Plage de la Garonne – A larger beach that’s easy to access, with shallow waters and plenty of space, making it great for a laid-back beach day.
Plage de la Coudoulière – A more rugged, less developed spot with a wilder feel, perfect if you want something a bit more natural and peaceful.
Plage des Oursinières – A charming little fishing port area with a small beach, colourful boats and a lovely local vibe, especially nice for a sunset stroll.
Toulon
Toulon is a lively Mediterranean port city in the south of France, set between the sea and surrounding hills, with a relaxed but distinctly local atmosphere. Its waterfront is a central part of daily life, especially in the evenings when families gather along the seafront, children play in the open spaces, and people stroll by the harbour as the sun goes down. We were lucky enough to visit during the jazz festival, which was absolutely amazing, and a real highlight was seeing Joshua Redman perform—“Borrowed Eyes” was especially unforgettable and is well worth listening to afterwards.
We also enjoyed simple moments by the sea, including having a glass of pastis while watching the activity along the waterfront, which really captured the easy rhythm of the city. Beyond the festival and seafront, Toulon has plenty to explore, from its historic old town with colourful markets and narrow streets, to the bustling harbour filled with naval and fishing boats. A cable car ride up Mont Faron offers sweeping views over the city and coastline, making it a great way to appreciate the scale and beauty of the area.
Overall, it was an amazing trip shared with my husband, filled with plenty of laughter, long walks and spontaneous swims in the sea. It was the kind of time that felt both restful and full at the same time, with simple everyday moments becoming the ones that stood out most.
Historic walk in La Garde: A historic walk through La Garde, exploring its old streets and medieval atmosphere.
Plage des Oursinières: Time at Plage des Oursinières, with its charming harbour and peaceful coastal setting.
Plage du Monaco:Swimming and relaxing at Plage du Monaco, surrounded by pine trees and rocky coves.
Plage de l’Anse Magaud:A visit to Plage de l’Anse Magaud, a beautiful, more secluded spot with clear water.
Free coastal train to Giens: Taking the free little train along the coast towards the Giens area, enjoying the views along the way.
Jazz festival in Toulon: The jazz festival in Toulon, including an unforgettable performance by Joshua Redman and evenings by the lively seafront.
